The meat you sleep with
In Texas, if there is any meat you want to sleep with, it’s brisket.
Texans take Barbeque uber seriously, committing to long shifts tending fires of burning oak, pecan, mesquite, or hickory wood for 16-24 hours. The prized meat, cooked in indirect heat, is generously covered with a heavily spiced rub while the magic of heat and meat takes a normally tough piece of beef breast and transforms it into a tender, juicy taste delight. Don’t ask for sauce because, in Central Texas, it may offend the cook.
Like the competitiveness between Texan A&M (Aggies) and the University of Texas (Longhorns), the competition between barbeque styles defined by region is intense. East Texas boasts a slow-cooked style in a sweet tomato-based sauce, while West Texas barbeque, affectionately known as Cowboy Style, is cooked over the direct heat of burning mesquite wood. South Texas may cook their Barbeque in a molasses-thick sauce, but it’s the Central Texas style that is considered the king of barbeques; at least, that’s what residents of Elgin, Lockhart, Luling, and Taylor say. Let’s face it: Texas is no place to be a vegetarian.
Although New York may be known for its bagels, Chicago for its pizza, and San Francisco for its sourdough bread, Texas is all about burning some beef.
As the barbeque season officially opened on Memorial Day, a little history is due to our celebration of the American grilling season, which closes its curtain on Labor Day. Although no one knows the culture who invented the art of Barbeque, when the Spanish arrived in the Americas (specifically in the Caribbean), they noticed the native population slow-cooked their meats over heated coals on wooden platforms. The American South quickly adopted Barbeque. It provided an excellent way to transform lower-quality meat cuts into tasty meals and keep leftovers alive longer, essentially making a silk purse out of a sow’s ear—so to speak. Former President Lyndon Baines Johnson enhanced his political career with what he called his barbeque diplomacy, taming political opponents with brisket, ribs, and down-home cooking.
Today, Texas barbeque is a culinary delight worthy of a quest from region to region. As the summer season ramps up, we raise our forks and lick our chops for the folks sleeping with the meat.
